To Corse or not to Corse?

Turns out this is a tough question. We have spent several weeks in these waters with “my way” and we got all sort of feelings. The places visited where Propriano, Tizzano, Bonifacio, Porto Vecchio. Faro and Figari, unfortunately, didn’t fit our itinerary or winds would keep us off at times nevertheless Bonifacio with its amazing flair kept calling us back.

The amazing small city on the cliff, the architecture, the stunning views behind the old walls to either the fiord or the open sea and the lighthouse or the white cliffs, all provide you with breathtaking beauty and a freshness. Walking uphill from the port is relatively demanding but definitely worth it and it shouldn’t put one off.

Strolling in the early evening just before the sunset in the narrow streets of the old city and the walls, discovering small corners of different aromas, aesthetics and history, meeting an all times classic group of ladies of some age who still talk at times in low voice and all burst to guilty laughs while serving some of the best French sweets, a hot cuisine here, a focused to his trey waiter there, a frustrated child screaming and a couple in love kissing all under the sounds of breaking waves, frying pans and street music is consisting the old city of Bonifacio. Somehow, although packed with tourists in August, this place manages to prevail over everything else and still give you a feeling of strength and character that can only make you wonder how it would be without all those distractions!

The harbor is so loud and busy (feels like the whole day) that you are happy if you squeeze your boat in a corner “off the highway” and just watch the others maneuvering and screaming. The marina stuff is rather qualified although at times slightly rude until they find out they are wrong but under the circumstances, we can give them some credit. They work under tremendous heat and craziness non-stop, they are entitled to some temperament although the truth is said, they mostly are helpful and polite. A small corner bar with a smiley personnel which seems to be the escape hidden place for the megayacht crews gave us twice an amazing evening of live solo music. Both performers were stunning and in combination with a very good wine, a breezy cool temperature and a stunning view to the fiord gave the much-needed points to vote, pro Corse indeed! We anchored in Ile de Cavallo and Lavezzi Islands. Both stunning places to be with amazing waters and sea life. The Lavezzi archipelago was the site of the shipwreck of the French frigate Sémillante on February 15, 1855. On the island of Lavezzu, there are two memorial cemeteries with the remains of the victims of the shipwreck. Looking at this unique natural landscape and thinking of all those souls who lost their lives there gives you the chills!

We couldn’t leave this part of the Med without paying a goodbye visit to the amazing La Maddalena archipelago and the homonymous city and of course Santa Teresa di Gallura on the North tip of Sardinia with its friendly marina, cool wheels train rides from/to port and the village with the nice “piazza” and the mouthwatering food and of course an anchorage at 5nm SW on the amazing crystal clear waters.

The last couple of days we are happy hostages of Castelsardo. Castelsardo is a unique medieval city in the Gulf of Assinara about 10nm from Isola Rossa and Porto Torres and almost 20 from Stintino on the NW cape of the island. Castelsardo offers the traveler a combination of a safe quiet marina and a vibrant castle city. Sardan cuisine (important note: when the say sardine gnocchi they mean a small pasta that has the shape of it, not the potatoes gnocchi most people think) and delicacies are proudly offered here with most businesses carrying a warm and absolutely friendly smile and service. It doesn’t take long to find your place in the city. We already discovered our favorite bars, restaurants and retreating spots. The scenery is like in the fairy tales, the flavors divine and well taken care of and the place competes easily with Cinque Terre, Scilla and other hot spots of the country.

The mistral is very strong as we speak on the North, affecting mainly Corse but Sardinia gets the long fetch waves and some Western winds which will turn north-west soon. While preparing the boat and some provisioning for our 200nm passage from Stintino/Sardinia to Menorca/Balears and therefore Spain oh Spain ( yes, we are excited! ), we need to make sure that we will get the best winds and hopefully no waves, therefore, we are enjoying the place in safety and high spirits. The luxury of being able to wait for the right weather to make a passage is only noticeable to those who had to face hard seas already so let’s just say if Poseidon is pissed off you better stay off.

So, we send you our warmest hugs from this beautiful little spot and we promise we will take all caution meters to bring ourselves and “my way” in shape to the Balears.

We can’t wait to meet the Spanish islanders and get introduced to one more different culture, language, and landscape.

Hasta luego!

Peter and Eirini